Fabrics



(No Model.) I 2 Sheets-- Shet 1..

W. G. FOSTER.

' METHOD 0'? STITUHING FABRIOS. No. 397,495. Patented Feb. 12, 1889.

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6, 05M 7 BY 2 ATTORNEYS.

(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

' W. 0. FOSTER.

METHOD OF STITOHING FABRICS; No. 397,495. Patented Feb. 12, 1889.

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'WILIJIAM CARR FOSTER, OF JERSEY CITY, NElV JERSEY, ASSIGNOR TO MARI A. GUMING, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

METHOD OF STITCHENG FABRECS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 397,495, dated February 12, 1889.

Application filed October 25, 1887. Serial No. 253,295. (No model.)

To aZZ whom, it may concern: and feed E in the usual manner to form the 50 Be it known that I, IVILLIAM CARR FOS- chain-stitch scam I). TER, of Jersey City, in the county of Hudson F is a horizontally-reciproeating bar held and State of New Jersey, have invented a new beneath the cloth-plate G and reciprocated by 5 and Improved Method of Stitching Fabrics, a cam, H, secured upon the main shaftJ of the of which the following is a full, clear, and exmachine. The action of the cam II is trans- 55 act description. mitted to the hook-bar F by the lever K, ful- My invention relates to a new method of crumed at It, the stud L, secured to the said leforming a double-row seam or whip-stitch, ver and entering the groove of the cam and the to whereby the side loops are bound at the lock pitnian-rod (1, connecting the upper end of the formed by the chain-stitch. lever with the inner end of the rod F, which 60 teference is to be had to the accompanying i ally a art of the bar F. This rod F on drawings, forming a part of this specification, h a sleeve r longbearing, F made fast to in which similar letters of reference indicate th arm M of the sewing-machine, and the I corresponding parts in all the figures. pitman (Z is connected to its inner end by a Figure 1 is a sectional side elevation of an 1 1b, f, Th belt f, which connects the pit- 5 ordinary \Villcox & Gibbs sewing-machine an (1 to the lever K, passes through a slot,f

having my invention applied thereto. Fig. 2 in the said lever, so that the outer end of the is a sectional side elevation of the same, taken itman may be raised and lowered to adjust on the line .00 a: of Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a detailed th trok of the bar F F. The said bar F is sectional view on line 1 3 of Fig. 2, needles in provided with a hook, t, formed with a shoul- 70 their lowermost position and the hooks just der, 0;, and the groove in the cam 11 is shaped entering the p g" is a Similar View to move the bar fromaposition where the hook showing the needles elevated and the hooks t stands wholly tothe right of the needle B,

retaining loops. Fig. 5 is a siinilarview showfi t t th position shownin Fig. 3, where the ing the needles at their lowest position again. hook enters the loop formed by the thread I) 75 g- (3 ShOWS the D1 Surface O e Sea and dwells. Then the cam forces the bar F Figs. 7 and 8 show the lower surface of the t0 the position shown in 1,4, and 5, and seam; and Fig. 9 is an enlarged view of the then withdraws it to the startingpoiut. The

horizontally-reciprocating hook for retaining first movement of thebar F is timed with the the loop, and illustrates the passing of one neemovement of the needIeTbar N and the hook O 80 (lle through the said loop in the descent of the in such manner that hook t' engages the thread needle. I) just as its needle is lifted up through the In forming my new seam I employ two fabric and just as the point of the hook G en threads, to b. The thread a is formed into the ters the loop of the thread a. The dwell of ordinary chain-stitch made by the VVillcox & thebar F now causes the hook 't' to retain the 8 5 Gibbs sewingnnachine, while the thread I) is thread Z) below the fabric until the needles passed through the fabric and carried to one start to descend. Then the bar F moves forside in the form of a loop and bound by surward to the position shown in Figs. 4 and 5,

4o rounding one of theloops of the chain between forming a loop, d, in the thread I), and at the the adjacent or connected loop and the fabric. same time carrying it by means of the shoul- 0 In forming thisstyle of seam or stitch I fit in der t" to a point immediatelybelow the needle the needle-bar N two needles, A B, for the A, and this is done just in time so that the threads to b, respectively. The needle A is set needle A will pass through the said loop (Z, as

lower than the needle B, and its eye is at right illustrated in Figs. 5 and 9. The needle A angles to the line of the feed, while the eye of having penetrated the loop (Z, the bar F is the needle B is set in line with the feed and withdrawn to its original position and the is threaded from the back. The needle A ascent of the needle A forms the usual loop, acts in connection with the rotating hook O (l, in the thread a, which. is taken up by the point of the hook 0 below the loop d, as illustrated in Fig. a. In this manner each chain or link of the chain-stitch seam D is connected or formed below the loops d and in or through the same, so that the said loops (Z are held close to the under side of the fabric, andheld also from lateral movement.

The cloth-plate G formed with a slot, 6, for the two needles A B, and the needle-baris reeiproeated by the needle-arm M, eccentric M, and connecting-rod M in the usual manner, and the feed E is operated by an eccentrio, J on the shaft J in the usual manner, and the machine is provided with a tension, N, for each thread a Z), and suitable guideloops, m and m, for each thread.

I lay no claim herein to the construction of the machine with and by which I carry into effect my new method of stitching fabrics, as various constructions can be employechbuthave claimed one form of machine for making the new scam in my application for Letters Patent filed April 14:, 1888, Serial No. 270,033.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

The method herein described of forming a seam of two threads in connection with a fabric, which consists, first, in passing two loops of thread through the fabric at a short distance apart, one to be formed into a chainstitch, the other into a transverse loop, then carrying the transverse loop across the space between the loops at the under surface of the fabric and retaining it there, and then passing a second chain-stitch loop down through the fabric, and first through the transverse loop, and then through the previous chainstitch' loop, this operation being repeated to form the scam, the transverse loop occupying a position between the chain-stitch loops and the fabric, substantially as described.

XVILLIAM CARR FOSTER. Witnesses:

EUGENE CHEVALLIER, EMILE DESCHAMPS. 

